With a passion for travel and particularly Morocco, I own and manage Sun Trails.

Monday, 18 November 2019 00:00

Honeymoon In Morocco - Sahara romance


luxury tent erg chigaga

Morocco honeymoon itinerary: the ideal escape in 2022.

{Update 1.08.2022: You no longer need a PCR test to enter Morocco, if you are vaccinated.} The one trip you will remember for the rest of your marriage. Why Morocco ? Riads straight out of 1001 nights. A small plane ride to land you next to the Sahara. Tea with the nomads. A lunch on top of the dunes just you, your loved one and your private butler. More than mere glamping. Village markets and secret kasbahs. Romance complimented by authenticity- that's our idea of a honeymoon in Morocco. Picture yourselves watching sunrise over the Sahara dunes: there's no better place to forget all about travel bans, mask wearing or the inflation.

dar ahlam tent

Our idea of a honeymoon tour in Morocco doesn't follow a set itinerary. Think of it rather as connecting different private local experiences and encounters with secret, intimate, authentic accommodations, within your budget and time available. Naturally, we offer a few sample itineraries on our website, to help set some kind of initial structure. Yet, for such a special occasion, why not tailor and customize each and every detail ? While favoring the privacy, remoteness and unique local experiences ?

Best Time of Year for a Morocco honeymoon

Overall, the country is best visited all year round. But to strike that fine balance between privacy, relaxation, the right temperatures and adventure, we'd recommend any time between October and May, avoiding if possible Easter and Christmas holidays, when Morocco sees quite an increase in the number of tourists. If you are willing to forego the Sahara desert, Morocco offers plenty to experience and see even during summer. Or maybe temperatures of over 40 Celsius don't scare you. Whatever your dates, send us an enquiry . With 15 years of in- country presence, we will tailor your honeymoon so as to get the best out of your time and budget.

plain and Berber woman

How Much Does a Morocco Honeymoon cost ?

It depends on the planning. Would you like to have your base in one location ( Marrakech or Fez) and move around from there or would you rather tour Morocco and include Marrakech, Fez and the Sahara, among others ? If the latter, a private 8 day tour with most expenses included starts at 1000 USD per person, with 3 star accommodation and can climb all the way to 4000 USD per person and more, with lodging at the likes of La Mamounia and a VIP 30 square meter luxury tent in the Sahara, including ensuite bathroom. It also depends on how much you wish to splash. Morocco is not an expensive country, when compared to Italy or Spain, but if you wish to treat yourselves to a hot air balloon ride or a hammam and massage treatment, it can quickly put a dent in your budget. Marrakech can equally be expensive in terms of accommodation and eating out, but even here you'll be able to get decent value for money.

couple on camels

Accommodation matters: The Best Riads, Lodges, Desert camps and boutique hotels in Morocco.

One reason for Morocco being such a popular destination is the design and location of the different riads, desert camps and other eco- lodges. From itinerant desert camps to luscious, lavish riads and eco- lodges running without electricity, the creativity is almost infinite. For a honeymoon though, we'd recommend favoring those places where privacy is almost guaranteed. The last thing you wish on your honeymoon is fractious children bomb- diving in the pool next to your sun- lounge or having to queue for buffet dining. You can find our favorite hideaways by scrolling down to the end of the article.

How Many Days Should You Spend in Morocco ?

To allow for adventure and relaxation, but also immerse yourselves into the local culture ? A minimum of 7- 8 days. 9- 10 days is ideal, if you can afford the time and the budget. What is too much ? Over 2 weeks. You'd need at least 2-3 days in each Marrakech and / or Fez. The Sahara is a 9- 10 hour drive from either of those two cities, so minimum a 4 day return trip with one overnight half way both on the way there and the way back.

atlas mountains and bicycle

Must do’s on a Honeymoon in Morocco

Marrakech or Fez, Marrakech being the more sensual, cosmopolitan, fashionable while Fez being the more traditional, authentic, discreet. Personally, nothing beats a walk in the medina of Fez. With no motorbikes or other modern wares in sight, it's traveling in time , the bygone era of Harun El Rashid and Aladdin... The Sahara dunes are a must, of course. It would spoil the experience if you didn't stay in a camp deep inside the dunes. And you'd probably want to go for an upgraded tent, with private toilets and showers. While Marrakech, Fez and the Sahara are obvious choices, I believe it's the local experiences that make a honeymoon unique in Morocco. Naturally, it's near impossible to schedule meeting water diviners or snake charmers in the Anti Atlas and share a cup of tea with them or visit a local's home. Most importantly though, a good local agent will design an itinerary where those experiences are likely to happen and they haven't been corrupted by the passage of mass tourism. An area rarely explored by travel agents and tourists altogether is Morocco's south- west, all the way from Zagora to the east to Guelmin to the west. Century- old fortresses, rock engravings, arresting gorges where gazelles sometimes scurry to quench their thirst, baking bread in the village oven with the local ladies, make up for unforgettable memories.

lma lodge skoura

How Do You Get to Morocco from the US ?

 Royal Air Maroc flies direct from New York and Miami to Casablanca. Based on our 11 years of feedback from guests, the flight and onboard service are decent enough. Delta, American and some other companies fly to Europe where there are plenty of connections with Morocco, especially from Spain, France and Italy, but also from Germany, Netherlands and the UK. We encourage you to first fly into southern Spain if you can afford a few days in Andalucia, where a stir of Morocco still lingers in the architecture, cuisine and local traditions. Connections with Marrakech, Rabat and Casablanca are available from Seville, Malaga and Valencia and the flight takes a little over one hour. 

Morocco Packing List

 There really isn't much that you can't purchase locally, if you forgot to pack it, whether it is sun screen, straw hats or iPhone charger. Unless you are into hardcore trekking or Bitcoin mining, you should pack as light as you feel comfortable, especially if you consider moving around the country. If you decide for a private Morocco tour, things are different. With pick- up from and drop off to the airport and a large boot that goes with the Toyota 4x4, you can almost pack your whole wardrobe. Do remember to leave some empty space in your suitcases if you plan to shop around. And even if you don't. Over the years, we've seen a few converts.

amtoudi ighrem

Privacy over Popularity

Jemaa El Fna square ? Majorelle Gardens ? Game of Thrones location ? Yes, we think they should be on everyone's Best Places to visit Morocco travel list. But remember, you are likely to jostle with many other travelers. You may want to intersperse those with lengthy moments of privacy. How ? Even within the madness of Marrakech's medina and its hustle and bustle you can find islets of tranquility. It can be your own Riad. It can be in the gardens of La Mamounia, if you happen to be there at sunset. And don't always believe the titles. Le Jardin Secret is not really secret. But most of the time, privacy and exploration will reward couples outside the big cities, on the way to or from the Sahara desert.

Adventure and Relaxation

As carefully as we curate every private tour to suit and exceed our guests' expectations, their most cherished memories are those special spontaneous moments on their trip. Impromptu visit to a local family that turned into lunch or an unexpected climb up to a brow from where a beguiling panorama unfolded, it's easy to always look for the next best experience. Relaxation should be factored in, and by that we don't mean a visit to the spa every other day. It may entail spending more than just one overnight at each location, so as to avoid packing every morning and unpacking every evening. Or cut out social media and being ‘connected to the world’. It may imply spending the morning by the pool and put off that thought of locating the most intricate bronze lamp in the whole souk. At least for a while.

sahara private lunch

Is Morocco Safe ?

In a nutshell, yes. Recent years have proven that Europe and other parts of the world are less likely to preclude or forestall a terrorist attack. Years ago, a special division has been created ( dubbed Moroccan FBI) whose one and only mission is to make sure that there is no terrorist threat present on Moroccan territory. The BCIJ is frequently consulted by French and European secret services on matters of security and data sharing. In terms of petty crime, Marrakech or Fez rank much better than other tourism hubs like Barcelona or Paris, largely because tourism is one of Morocco's main bread earners and most citizens mean tourists well, from the local policeman to the taxi driver and master craftsman. Moreover, in the light of the recent Covid pandemic, Morocco is the most successful African country in terms of its vaccination campaign, trailing just behind France, Spain or Italy. As of spring 2022, most of the Morocco travel restrictions are now lifted


Where to eat out in Morocco 

Although Morocco is still to boast its first Michelin star restaurant, the local food scene in the big cities will satisfy the most demanding gourmets, its influences being French, Italian, Thai and naturally, Moroccan, among others. Our personal favorites are: Fez: Dar Hatim  ( Moroccan ), Dar Roumana ( Moroccan/ French); Marrakech: Dar Rhizlane ( French / International), Al Fassia ( Moroccan), L'O a la bouche ( French). This list is by no means definitive, as the restaurant scene in Morocco sees a high turnover. We try and test and rank local restaurants as often as we can, bar a worldwide pandemic. 

Most Romantic Sahara camp

Not only do you deserve a romantic camp, but ideally, a remote one, with plenty of privacy to admire sunset and sunrise from a top of a dune, the view unencumbered. With Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga, the two dunes locations, we'd urge you to consider the latter. Yes, maybe the dunes of Erg Chebbi are taller, but you are never sheltered from the risk of crossing paths with herds of tourists on a camel group ride or a quad bike outing. In contrast, the dunes of Erg Chigaga are more remote, less transited, possibly due to being simply less accessible. By bus, that is. Not for nothing, Dar Ahlam chose this location for their itinerant camp. Our favorite must be Azalai Camp with its white canvas tents, vintage suitcases and leather club armchairs, like stepping onto the set of Out of Africa...


Below, we have selected a few of those addresses that we think best embody the secret hideaway spirit. You can select all or a few of them and have us design a private customized tour around these properties and some hand- picked experiences. They are not limited to honeymooners only. Some couples may merely desire to find themselves again and reconnect with each other. Cut out the white noise around. Yes, that includes social media and being ‘connected to the world’. But that's entirely up to you. The only limit is your budget and the time you can take off to travel around Morocco. 

The house of dreams. And it will certainly fulfill some. More than that, it will consistently leave you rapt. Wonder. Experience. Enchant. The French owner used to create private events in Paris, so the last thing he wished for is a 5 star resort inside a palm grove. What if someone knew your favorite color was purple and you'd arrive in your room to find everything is purple ? What if you didn't know where or what your next meal is going to be ? Perhaps it will be a candlelit table in a tiny room in the labyrinth that you didn’t know existed. Or a set up dining area showing up out of nowhere, complete with your butler, up in the High Atlas, by the riverbed. This 15 suite hideaway sits at the foot of the High Atlas mountains, nested within the 4500- acre palm grove of Skoura. Part of the wonder of staying here is learning the way back to your room. With a staff of 100, you can get an idea of how personal the attention and service is going to be. In the image- based world we live in, where information is instant, this is a world of secrets. A house of dreams. It would make little sense staying here less than two nights, arriving late evening and departing early after breakfast the next day. Magic needs time to operate. If you wish to know more about it, please click here
main kasbah and pool

Marc Belli has just realized his dream: to build sleeping cabins in the rural plot he owns facing the Atlas mountains. If he shares with many of his contemporaries a desire to get back to nature, Marc, a French photographer and art director, is also victim to a certain nostalgia for the ‘paradise garden’ of his youth: that of his grandmother’s villa, where he spent his holidays. Covering nearly 4,000sq m, this narrow plot is enclosed by a rammed-clay wall. It is reached by a dusty track edged by thorn bushes and cacti. Another surprise awaits beyond the patio: an electric-blue raised swimming pool that seems to stretch as far as the eye can see
Picturesque pathways dotted with garden seats wind through the fragrant, bushy undergrowth, opening the way through the eucalyptus, pomegranate, citrus, olive and fig trees, aloes, succulents and more. At the far end of the garden, buried among the vegetation, are the five cabins open to guests. Wooden cubes, the cabins are reminiscent of Balinese gazebos or small Japanese tea houses and have been fabricated out of local materials.

dar zahia garden

South of Essaouira, on the Atlantic coast and north of Agadir lies the small village of Tafedna. This feels remote and at first, it's hard to see the sandy beach, tucked among the Argan cliffs that makes any encounter with the waves of the Atlantic uniquely memorable.
Therein lies Tasgua- Yan, a charming 14-room guest house overlooking the sea, its walls forged out of local stone and timber. The white washed walls and blue framed windows reminisce of the Greek islands rather than Morocco. You come here to disconnect from the world. Take long walks along the deserted beach or through the argan forest. Sit by the fire place or the turquoise pool with your favorite novel. Swim in the ocean. Linger on for dinner over fresh fish and a glass of vin gris. Let time pass. By the Atlantic, in the middle of nowhere. Literally.

Tasgua Yan


If one could have only one thing, one reason only to visit Morocco, this would be it: a night at Azalai Desert Camp in the dunes of Erg Chigaga. Let your driver arrange for a camel ride just before entering the dunes so you arrive in style at the camp, right about sunset. Four large white canvas tents and three slightly smaller ones, complement each other so that one might think he's on his own in the desert. Two VIP tents, further away, come with their own dedicated butler, club leather armchairs and lounge- library. Inside you'll find king-sized wrought-iron beds, quality mattresses, finest bedspreads, mosquito nets and Fes - ceramic water basins. Berber rugs cover the uneven rattan floors. King-sized beds are heavy with blankets and brocade covers – necessary in the winter – and light is provided by tin battery-powered lanterns. Bathrooms are provided with eco- toilets and pump showers with hot water. Dinner is served by candlelight, wreathed by lanterns placed meticulously atop the dunes. The four course set menu regularly starts with harira soup, Moroccan briouates, continues with a hearty beef or lamb tagine and ends with a French desert. The hardest is to leave.

dunes of erg chigaga


You really have to know your way to get here. About 20 minutes drive from the dreamy village of Oualidia, the road overhangs the tomato parcels juxtaposing the beach. An unassuming turn and a few miles of off- road take you to the gates of Azalai Cottage. Strong on the heels of Azalai Desert Lodge, arguably the smartest guest house south of Ouarzazate, Bouchaib, the French- born Moroccan owner, an accomplished architect himself, entrusted Helene Bartholdi to create something altogether different. The Out- Of- Africa feel was replaced by something much more Mediterranean, almost Aix-en- Provence vibe, with the occasional Berber carpet thrown- in. Five rooms, two suites and two bungalows all face the Atlantic and the gradient makes it that everyone gets a sea- view. Between the villa and the beach, a generous pool blends smoothly with the garden’s palm grove, near a shaded beach hut providing a bounty of fine shell fish cuisine to be enjoyed under the cool swaying shade of the palm fronds. The well stocked library and board games make up for the lack of any TV or wifi. 

azalai beach cottage

In the 1960's, long before budget airlines and Trip Advisor, Morocco started to attract a particular kind of crowd. Fashion moguls, actors, artists and writers, settled here or had a secondary home, a Paradise Lost retreat from the disenchantment with a more and more mechanical Europe. Their villas were the epitome of design, mixing the Moroccan- inspired carpets, zellij, fountains or woodwork with modern European art, African masks, Andalusian gardens and Italian chandeliers. La Tour des Faucons is such a place, located just outside Taroudant, but Karl, the very down- to- earth German owner, doesn't throw any opulent parties. What he likes to do nowadays is welcome guests and have good company. The art collection on display should be protected with infra- red laser at night. But don't think for a second that you'll be spending the night in a museum. The suites are immense and fully functional with floor heating and reversible A/C. The bathrooms seem to come out of Architectural Digest. There is a 30 meter long pool to keep you fit, if you manage to not get lost in the gardens. Be there at the right time of year and you can join in to harvest the olives or oranges.

tour des faucons taroudant


Short on time while in Marrakech and you don't want to miss the desert experience ? Well, you have Agafay desert, just 45 minutes drive away. In all honesty, Agafay desert is not really a desert. It's a startling revelation, as one is surrounded by nothing but biscuit-colored waves of rock that stretch as far as the eye can see; an isolated palm tree flapping its fronds and a couple of camels grazing peacefully add to the illusion. La Pause is a rustic retreat where you can both get back to nature and keep your comfort intact. And what better example than the wood burning stoves that stand guard keeping the chilly air of those winter nights away from the open fronted rooms ? There is no electricity and scarcely any mobile reception. But perhaps snoozing, stargazing and staring into space are not your thing. Well, worry not. Camel riding, buggy racing, Arab caligraphy, massages or a cooking class can all be arranged on site. The rooms are built of pisé (adobe and straw mix) and the stylish lodges are sublimely illuminated by candles and oil lamps. You will find a sumptuous king sized bed, a strong shower, low sofas, rugs and cushions, plus fireplaces and a patio sun-lounger for morning mint teas. Their comfortably arranged Berber tents let you enjoy magical moments and beautiful evenings under the stars, whilst listening to the captivating and hypnotic rhythms of traditional Gnawa music.

La Pause


Juan, an international photographer, wanted to blend his love of photography, India and the Sahara and Casa Juan is the offspring. In the middle of nowehere, this is as remote as you can get, on the edge of the Sahara. Given the coordinates, it is hard to imagine you'd find a manager that speaks fluent English. Or refined Moroccan cuisine. Finding the place is like a treasure hunt. You will sometimes be met by Juan himself and get your luggage carried to your room by donkey. You will truly appreciate having a 4x4 here as you'll need to cross a few small dunes to make it to the house. I've hardly ever stayed in a hotel where the names of the rooms encapsulated this well their respective names: Africa, India ... From the rooms and the public areas, it is clear that the owner has travelled all over the world and has decorated the spaces with some sublime photos and very rare artfacts. Abdel , Hamid and the rest of the team could not make you feel more welcome. Just go up those stairs and come out on the roof terrace to awe at the setting sun over the palm grove and the dunes...

casa juan

Want to start planning your Morocco honeymoon ? Get in touch with our team here or send us an enquiry at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.  .

Thursday, 11 July 2019 00:00

Cooking with the locals in Marrakech


Not only cooking Moroccan food, but also with locals. In their home.

So here we are on a beautiful day in May, just a few days before the starting of Ramadan and nothing seems to foretell it. It’s 10 AM and we are crossing Jemaa El Fna square in the company of Oumaina, our hostess for the day. The vendors are as busy as ever, enticing us with exotic juices, their stalls piled with heaps of oranges and grapefruits. Oumaima, whose English is sublime, is a student at Cadi Ayad university in Marrakech where she studies tourism. Part- time she hosts cooking classes, but also handicraft workshops in zellij, babouche, tadelakt or pottery. She sounds very enthusiastic about the day ahead and her job in general. As we are stepping off the square she muses about her dreams to become a licensed guide in Marrakech, one of the first, if not the first female guide.


After a few twists and turns around the derbs of the bustling medina with its tourists, shop owners luring their clients in and donkeys pulling carts loaded with carpets, tagines or rubble, we make it to the small riad where the cooking will actually take place. When I say riad, I don’t mean the fancy guesthouses of Marrakech so popular with tourists nowadays. This is literally a local’s home where the lady of the house is preparing the tea, while her niece which is visiting from Spain, is on her way out, leaving her 1 year old baby in the capable hands of the house ladies. There are two common areas on the ground floor where the women spend most of the day, together with the kitchen. On the first floor, one can guess there are two or three more rooms which most likely are dispatched to young married couples. The men would have all gone out to their work earlier and probably would come back home late afternoon.


After passing on the invitation to tea, we head out back into the streets. Our next stop on our Moroccan cookery class? The butcher. Aicha, our cook for the day, joined us for the shopping. While Oumaima is busy describing every day life inside the house, Aicha stands in line waiting to purchase some good chicken thighs. Once the chicken purchased, we slalom past the crowd into the open air souika, the colourful local market. We’ll need onions, lemons, parsley, tomatoes and aubergines. Aicha knows her providers and so she sorts the ingredients out. Some guests would prefer skipping taking photos of the exotic stands and instead bargain for vegetables themselves…


Back on our tracks and across Place des Epices, where slave auctions used to take place in the not- so- distant past, we are heading towards the square, more precisely just behind it, where the preserved vegetables market takes shelter. Once our olives purchased, we are pressing on to the riad, just when the heat starts stifling.


Now it’s time for action. Aprons on, we are handed the necessary kitchen ware and off we go. It seems that I will be in charge of preparing the chicken tagine while Leila will supervise the zaalouk, a popular tapenade made out of smoked aubergines, tomatoes and garlic. I’m a fiend for zaalouk so I will certainly peep over. Before anything else, Aicha sets about by rinsing the chicken parts… with lemon juice. By her account, the juice not only kills all the germs but also renders the chicken tender throughout the cooking. 


I start with placing the chicken thighs inside the tagine. Then, it’s the turn of the garlic which I chop really slender and sprinkle it over the chicken. Leila gives me a hand with chopping the parsley which is sprinkled next. Tears run down my cheeks thinking of the chicken that had to be sacrificed for our lunch… I’m kidding, of course. I’ve sliced so much onion that it completely shelters the chicken by now. Next, it’s time for decorating with olives, spice it with a little saffron powder and lastly, pour a good ladleful of olive oil over. Our cook tells us there’s no point in using water as the chicken will let out liquid while cooking.


We place the tagine over the fire, not before wedging a metal plate in between to help diffuse the heat of the direct flame and avoid cracking the adobe tagine. TIP: never expose the tagine stewer to direct flame and settle the flame as low as possible.


While the tagine is cooking, we place the aubergines next to the fire and turn them around so that they don’t burn. Once ready and pulled from the flame, Leila will sit down and peel them, before chopping them as fine as we can. We grind the tomatoes and the garlic and we mix it all with a good pinch of paprika, cumin, salt and pepper. We then place it all on the fire in a pan and slow cook it while mixing with a spoon occasionally. When I thought I played my part, Aicha showed up with a tray and informed me it was time for making Moroccan bread.


After sifting two kinds of flour and working the dough ( don’t ask me how to shed the dough off your fingers) it’s getting somewhat tricky to turn those lumps into perfect circles which are then to be shoved inside the oven, not before puncturing them with a fork.


While the tagine and zaalouk are cooking and the bread is baking, we are being served a Moroccan tea. And it feels well deserved. Some half hour later everything is ready and lavishly spread on a table in the patio. Out of the two, I find the zaalouk to be the better. Bread chunk in hand we dig into the tagine, traditional way. The onion has completely sunk and caramelized and the chicken is as tender as it gets. I can finally brag about knowing how to make zaalouk, one of the staples of Moroccan cuisine…


Please note that such a class would take about 5 hours, lunch included. Cooking with the locals in Marrakech is offered as a choice of activities while on one of our bespoke Morocco tours.

© Sun Trails 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Monday, 22 April 2019 00:00

Babouche Making in Marrakech

Making your own babouches in the medina of Marrakech ?

With a local crafts master ? Yes, you can. Whenever we get the chance we like to immerse ourselves in the local culture here. Vernacular experiences. And Marrakech, the place we call home since 2006 offers quite a few choices for that, despite the explosion of tourism of the last decade. After having cooked a tagine and bargained for spices and vegetables in the medina, crafted pottery in tadelakt and chipped the patterns of Moroccan zellij, we heard that someone could actually teach you how to make a babouche. You know, the sharp- pointed leather slippers, the ubiquitous Arab world accessory. Almost everybody ends up buying a pair of them after touring Morocco. But making a pair ? We wanted to see if we've got what it takes...

IMG 8741

We arrived at the shop one busy afternoon in November. The medina of Marrakech swarmed with motorbikes, pedestrians, donkeys, carts and cats. Rachid, the master maalem ( craftsman) was sitting comfortably beyond his desk in the back of a tiny shop whose walls were entirely furnished with hand- made shoes of all shapes, forms and styles. Sheets of raw leather of different colours and textures were piling up in a corner. After exchanging greetings, we had a quick introduction to the different techniques and a description of how the crafts class was about to unfold. First, the basics: 1) choose a size inferior to the one you have. For instance, if a 9, choose 8.5 ( if 43 choose 42). 2) you’ll craft the babouche from scratch, except for the stitching (if you want to factor that part in, add another hour and a half to the actual class).

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From beyond the counter, Youssef hauled a few sheets of raw leather in very exotic colors. We were supposed to choose each a color of our future leather slippers. Hard choice... Saffron yellow, turquoise, lilac move, red brown, purple, shiny black were just a few of the options on dispaly. I finally decided for coffee brown while Leila, my enthusiast colleague, went for a sort of reddish brown.

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Before making our choice, the master craftsman pointed out that traditionally men in Morocco wear yellow or black whereas Moroccan women have a choice of any colour and quite a few are embroidered. Tourism drove up considerably the demand as well as the fabric type and so nowadays one can spot in the souks of the red city anything from blue- jean or zebra print babouches. Don't trick yourself in believing that a Moroccan would ever wear such deviations from the norm… It was time to get our hands to work ! We took possession of the pattern and proceeded to draw the shape of it on the leather sheet we had each selected. 

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Then it was time for the second stage: the gluing. After applying generous layers of special glue, we pasted the parts together under the undivided attention of our master maalem. Soles slashed out, foam layer was rubbed in so that excessive walking wouldn’t be harsh on our feet.

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Then, it was time to activate our muscles. The mallet in our hands, the different leather garments were bashed together. The shapes were handed to Youssef, who started stitching the garment to the soles, while we indulged in the ubiquitous pleasure of having a Moroccan tea and cookies. After all, it was getting near to 5 PM.

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When finished with our tea, we were surprised to find that our soon-to-become-babouches resembled shoes reminiscing of what peasants used to wear in Europe centuries ago. Or perhaps, the Eskimos. Never mind, they sure didn’t look like a leather slipper that you’d wear around the house. Where’s the trick, I thought. Well, there was one.

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That was indeed the babouche, except it had to be turned inside out. And so we did. Turn it inside out. In the process, I was largely helped by a wooden stick. The trick is: you turn the shoe inside out using your hands as much as you can. Which is about 3 inches. Then you shove the stick inside the pocket thus created and you pull. And pull. At first, you are afraid that the stitches will give up from so much pulling. But they won’t. Eventually, you end up with an almost perfect babouche. And I think we did. I mean, have a look at the pictures and judge.

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Please note that such a class would take about 3- 4 hours for a whole class, tea time included. Stitching will be taken care of by the master craftsman. Babouche - making class is offered as a choice of activities while on one of our bespoke Morocco tours

© Sun Trails 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this interview may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Tuesday, 19 March 2019 00:00

Riad Laaroussa, Fes


Riad Laaroussa, our guests' favorite riad in Fes- the interview.

I first passed the doorstep of Riad Laaroussa in 2013 on the occasion of Fes World Sacred Music Festival. I immediately felt compelled by the proportions and objects. The ground floor rooms had 7 meter high ceilings. And the courtyard could have accommodated a generous pool but the owner decided to maintain its fountain and its citrus gardens. Soon after that visit, we sent our first guests there as Fes was part of their 7 day travel around Morocco. And over the years, the feedback of our guests only got more and more positive. When I meet them at their riad at the end of their private tour of Morocco to talk about their trip, more often than not, they rate their stay at Riad Laaroussa as the best throughout their tour. So then, what is that makes Riad Laaroussa unique ? For me, it goes beyond things you can touch. It's ultimately the staff. Although Moroccan hospitality and charm is almost a given when staying in a riad in Morocco, the personnel here feel like they're all a big family. And most of them have been around since the opening. The owners, Fred ( French) and Cathy ( American), have decided from the beginning to do things differently. How so ? Well, that's what we came to Fes to find out. It was a chilly day in March and spring seemed to have second thoughts. So Leila and I sat down with Fred and had a chat about it. 

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Sun Trails: When did you open the Riad and how did that come about ?
Fred: In 2003 I visited Fes with my father and I fell in love with the old town. I had hired a local guide and when he showed me inside some of the old palaces of Fes, I was smitten. At that point, I had no idea that I would some day buy an old house, open a hotel and so on. But it was then that the seed started to grow and some months later I got back and thought of purchasing an old house and renovate it, but without any commercial use in mind. 

ST: But had you visited another city in Morocco by then ?
F: I was born in Casablanca and know pretty well Morocco. I had visited also Marrakech many times, but although I love Marrakech for a thousand reasons, I never had this coup de coeur that I felt in Fes. In Fes, I had fallen for this medieval ambiance that somehow connected with me and I felt something that I can’t retrieve in the modern world.

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ST: Perhaps also because Fes is really the only medina in Morocco where one travels in time.
F: Indeed, and even after 15 years, when I walk down the streets with my children, that magic still operates.

ST: So you bought an old house. How did you think of making a riad out of it?
F: Well, in the beginning, we just had a few parties and a good time. But after a while, I found myself with a big house on my hands, most of the time empty. There were already a few riads open in Fes. So I thought, why not open a guest house ? And so I started renovating the house so as to be able to welcome guests. I thought I was going to hire a manager, but every time I returned to see how works were progressing, I was sad to leave. I was 40 and thought it’s perhaps the right moment to change my life around.

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ST: So the guest house opened in 2006 ?
F: Yes.

ST: What was the house before ?
F: A family house left abandoned. Only 2 old sisters lived in one of the rooms downstairs.
The last proprietor were merchants in hlyia ( a Moroccan delicacy made of salty preserved meat ). The present kitchen is where they used to slaughter the animals and turn the meat into hlyia. The house itself dates back to at least 17th century. We’ve done a few researches and found some documents. We know also for example that by the beginning of 19th century it was left in ruin and bought by a rich merchant that restored it. It was also a koranic school at some point in time. Every other year, there’s an old man knocking at the door and taking a visit. He reminisces of how he grew up in this or that particular room.

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ST: How did Fes change since you are here ?
F: I don’t think that the medina has changed much. Although the number of riads has grown from a dozen back in the day to around 300 nowadays, I don’t think that the medina has changed much. Of course many years ago, we weren’t confronted to groups of tourists following their tour leader through the souks, but overall things are the same.

ST: What is that makes Fes unique ?
F: Its authenticity. There are still people living in this medina like they used to for generations. And the community spirit. People greet each other. Take their time. Of course, I’m not going to be a hypocrite. I live in my own cocoon. I’m wealthier than the average man and it’s easy for me to approach people, but nevertheless I love being part of it all. The modern world hasn’t quite crept in yet.

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ST: Well yes, if you compare it to Marrakech where it’s harder and harder to find a community spirit inside the medina, in Fes this balance hasn’t yet been tipped over, even if many foreigners own a house here.
F: I agree.

ST: Especially more nowadays when the flag of sustainability is often waved, Fes is an example of how foreign investment doesn’t necessarily have to involve a bastardization of local culture.
F: Everybody in the medina is happy that their business is thriving -there's no denying it, but what’s more important is that its authentic way of life endures. I am originally from those beautiful villages south of France. They are magnificent, yet uninhabited. So, where is the soul of things ? I'm not making any judgement. But what’s important for me is that my children can play in the street. That I can greet my barber. Chit-chat to the newspaper man. I feel part of a community. Surrounded.

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ST: I agree, it’s the same when I travel to Granada, my favorite city in Europe. The old town there, with its carmens, which are very similar to riads in Morocco, is a big open air museum. Yet, there are no children in the streets taking the bread to the local oven early in the morning.
F: Or the lady of the house picking up the bread in the afternoon. And if it’s not her son fetching the bread, the neighbor will. And the oven master will know whose bread it is by the motifs on the towel. This is something that touches me. And it reassures me.

ST: What’s there to do in the surroundings of Fes ?
F: The two day trips that are ubiquitous are: 1) Meknes and Volubilis. The Roman ruins of Volubilis are from second century and standing them on the hill overlooking, one can only wonder of how all had been invented already back then. Meknes is worth for its monuments, especially the Royal granaries where 2000 horses used to be kept. 2) Middle Atlas and the cedar forests. It’s a pity that there are no trekking routes signposted, because this is a trekker paradise. And I know so because I am one. Something that’s not so developed in Fes, is to trek or bike just beneath Mont Zalagh. A trek there with a picnic would be a great way to spend half a day.

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ST: It’s funny you should say that because we are seriously considering hooking up mountain bikes on our 4x4’s so guests can use them whenever they feel like it throughout their bespoke trip around Morocco.
F: That’s a great idea.

ST: With 4 children, how do you manage to find that balance between the guest house and a family life ? 
F: What it was clear for me from the beginning was that we wanted our staff to be autonomous. It’s not in my character to wish to control everyone and do regular checks. There have been deceptions, and there should be, but we’ve started over. We've tried harder. And I think that nowadays we can afford to not be present most of the time. There’s Thierry, my brother in law, and Raja, our manager that deal with front office and back office operations. Which allows us to not be sucked in by the day- to- day operations. Except when Cristian from Sun Trails asks us to do a silly interview, for the CNN...

ST: I'm not sure about the CNN... But congratulations on achieving that. I don’t know many hotel owners that can say the same.
F: I changed lifestyle 15 years ago. I was in investment banking, spending my life running between world capitals thinking I was more important than anyone else around me. I wasn’t going to change life and become a slave again to some cash - and - carry. Because you can look at it like that: you cash in from your clients and cash out to your suppliers. But I accept that because of the freedom that comes with our choice of lifestyle, we may be loosing some pennies here and there. I can live with that.

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ST: Which brings me to my next question: how come the team here is so solid ?
F: By yielding them autonomy and responsibility. And then I believe we all have a mind of our own, and so anyone can come up with a great idea. They are well paid ( compared to the average pay in Morocco), there are extra bonuses. It costs much less to have employees here than in Europe, there’s no denying. I am ashamed that some French people can come here, open a business, pay a minimal Moroccan wage to his employees and then complain that his expectations are not met. I am profoundly revolted. When your employee is sick, you have an obligation to look after him or her. So, naturally, the staff feels looked after and so they stay loyal. We took our staff on holidays to Paris. To Instanbul.

ST: What makes Riad Laaroussa unique ? Besides its 7 meter ceiling rooms, great decorations, stunning views and delicious cuisine. I meet most of the guests on our private tour of Morocco and ask them for feedback. This is our guests’ favorite.
F: So what do they say ? Why is it so ?

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ST: Service.
F: That’s right. Just like I said. When you take care of your staff, you get so much in return. Look at Badia. Here she found a place. No one casts judgments at Riad Laaroussa. Because she’s a woman. Or because she’s poor. And it is because she feels loved that she is able to express herself. And that built her self- confidence. And, in the process, she taught herself English, among other things.

ST: What are the latest trends in terms of tourism in Fes ?
F: The Chinese, of course. We don’t get many of them, as they come in groups. We always get a lot of English speaking clientele and I think that reflects Fes as a whole. I have the impression that more English speaking people visit Fes than Marrakech.

ST: As a percentage, I would agree. What are your plans for the future ?
F: Be happy. Who cares about the rest ?.. No, joke apart, we are looking into perhaps expanding the Riad and accommodate a few more rooms. We may be romantics, but I hate saying no to room enquiries. Maybe the spa also, expand it. The cuisine, we’d like to be able to propose something different if guests had too many tagines.

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Accommodation at Riad Laaroussa is currently being offered on our bespoke tours of Morocco with our Privilege range.

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